{"alias":"storyCaseStudy","byline":"Words: Annabel Rose | Illustrations: Kate Wilson","standfirst":"We explore the growing availability of inclusive clothing, the difference it\u2019s making to people\u2019s lives, and how it\u2019s helping them to be themselves","content":{"layouts":[{"type":"singleColumn","areas":[{"items":[{"gridType":"gridImageBlock","gtmId":"gtmId","gtmClass":"gtmClass","image":"/media/6460/trio.jpg","width":1920,"height":1080,"altText":"An illustration of four people in different poses showing off their outfits. One person is holding a sewing needle and thread","caption":"","link":null},{"gridType":"RichTextBlock","content":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAnyone who\u2019s ever felt a little bolder in a new coat or acted a little sillier wearing fancy dress knows the clothes we wear can affect how we feel and behave. Here, we explore the growing availability of inclusive clothing, the difference it\u2019s making to people\u2019s lives, and how it\u2019s helping them to be themselves.\u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPlease be aware that this article contains discussion about self-harm scars.\u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of us know that the clothes we wear can affect the way we feel. Sometimes it\u2019s simple. An itchy jumper may make someone feel irritable, or a pair of too-tight trousers may put someone off joining in with a spontaneous dance party.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, the idea of inclusive clothing made headlines as attention turned to the links between girls\u2019 participation in PE and the kits they were expected to wear. One study found that over a quarter of girls avoided sport because of the kit, and Jennie Price, head of \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.sportengland.org/\u0022\u003ESport England\u003C/a\u003E, said they should be allowed to wear more comfortable clothes. Now, many anecdotal reports suggest that relaxing the rules (and involving young people in designing their kit) improves participation.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, sometimes it goes deeper than comfort. Sometimes clothes affect our thinking. Studies have found that wearing large hoods and capes made people more likely to give others electric shocks, and wearing a bikini made women feel ashamed, eat less, and perform worse at maths.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETwo psychologists, Hajo Adam and Adam Galinsky, decided to investigate whether clothes really have power over how people see themselves and behave. They suggested a phenomenon called \u2018enclothed cognition\u2019 to explain how wearing clothes with symbolic meanings changes how we think and behave.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey did a series of \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0022103112000200\u0022\u003Eexperiments\u003C/a\u003E involving attention tests and white lab coats. In one, they found that people wearing lab coats made around half as many errors as those wearing their everyday clothes. In another, they told some people that the coats were \u2018doctor\u2019 coats and told others they were \u2018artistic painter\u2019 coats. Those wearing \u2018doctor\u2019 coats performed better than those wearing \u2018artistic painter\u2019 coats. The clothes people wore (and what they symbolised and meant to them) affected how they thought and performed.\u0026nbsp;\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClothes are important. They\u2019re not just about looking good: they can affect how people feel, how they see themselves, and how they act. Over the past few years, we\u2019ve started to understand that the same clothes don\u2019t work for everyone. People with sensory sensitivities, people who are physically disabled or have scars, and plus-sized people all need options that work for them. Thankfully, there are more options than ever \u2013 and it\u2019s making a real difference to people\u2019s lives.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESensory sensitivities \u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe use our senses to gather information about the world. People who struggle with sensory processing (for example, many \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.autism.org.uk/about/behaviour/sensory-world.aspx\u0022\u003Eautistic people\u003C/a\u003E) may be more or less sensitive to things that others don\u2019t think twice about, like finding perfume overwhelming or preferring strong-tasting foods. When it comes to clothes, there\u2019s plenty to consider.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJosefina Troncoso is an autistic artist and youth patron for the charity \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.ambitiousaboutautism.org.uk/\u0022\u003EAmbitious About Autism\u003C/a\u003E. Clothes that work for her include \u2018fabrics that feel unusually soft, and loose clothing\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther things, including tight clothing, clothing with a lot of seams on the inside, and clothing made from stiff fabrics are a total non-starter for her.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJosefina says it\u2019s very common for autistic people to have specific clothing requirements. Some are common (like disliking seams inside clothes), but not everyone\u2019s preferences are the same.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018Some people can\u2019t stand the feeling of velvet, whereas I love it \u2013 as long as it doesn\u2019t have a viscose lining,\u2019 explains Josefina.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThings become difficult when people don\u2019t have as much choice in what they wear. Josefina had to wear a school uniform; she hated the formal version as it \u2018felt very constraining\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, she didn\u2019t have the knowledge or vocabulary about autism to understand what was going on. \u2018I think I just assumed it was meant to be uncomfortable,\u2019 she says.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt\u2019s not just about discomfort \u2013 often, \u2018the general public don\u2019t understand how clothing affects autistic people,\u2019 Josefina says. \u2018Sometimes it feels flat out painful. I can\u2019t help thinking about it even when I try to distract myself.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as affecting our wellbeing and mental health, clothes can prevent people getting on with everyday things, like education. Josefina says that clothes \u2018absolutely\u2019 affect her ability to get on with day-to-day tasks.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018I can\u2019t even sit still,\u2019 she explains. \u2018If I\u2019m at home, I have to spring back into my room to get changed.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat about when clothes do work?\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018I think I feel more normal? Happier?\u2019 Josefina ponders. \u2018Sometimes with particularly \u201Cme\u201D items of clothing, especially when they\u2019re new, I get like a weird rush of happiness.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018It\u2019s nice (and almost novel) to feel really comfortable, even though nobody decides what kind of clothing I wear any more. I feel really grateful for clothes that work for me.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPhysical disability\u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome disabled people can buy clothes from any shop, but others struggle to find stuff that\u2019s been designed with bodies like theirs in mind. Motivated by morals and profit, brands (including \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.marksandspencer.com/l/kids/easy-dressing\u0022\u003EM\u0026amp;S\u003C/a\u003E, \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk/clothing/easy-on-adaptive-clothing\u0022\u003ESeasalt\u003C/a\u003E and \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.nike.com/gb/flyease\u0022\u003ENike\u003C/a\u003E) are responding to the demand for adaptive fashion, but small businesses were ahead of the trend.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESibling team Jess and Dom set up\u0026nbsp;Willow Bug because it was difficult to find clothes that worked for Jess\u2019 daughter, Willow, who has \u003Ca href=\u0022http://smauk.org.uk/\u0022\u003ESMA\u003C/a\u003E (a condition that causes muscle weakness). When you spend your whole day sitting, zips, waistbands, seams and even small creases\u0026nbsp;become really irritating and trousers can ride down at the back. Willow Bug\u2019s school trousers have a soft, zip-free waistband and they\u2019re higher at the back too.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWinter coats were another big issue for Willow. \u2018It was a huge struggle to get Willow\u2019s arms into the sleeves,\u2019 explains Jess. \u2018Once the coat was on, it was too bulky and made it difficult for her to drive her wheelchair\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWillow Bug\u2019s coats are shorter and less padded and have Velcro at the back \u2013 Willow slides her arms in and Jess fastens it. It\u2019s made a huge difference for Willow. Before, when it was cold, Willow never wanted to go out, but, with the coat, last year she could finally enjoy a snowball fight with her brother.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWillow Bug are making things easier for other people, too. \u2018I know how much the clothing\u2019s changed mine and Willow\u2019s lives,\u2019 says Jess. \u2018To hear others are benefiting too is great.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EScars\u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.childrenssociety.org.uk/good-childhood-report/self-harm-in-children-statistics-facts\u0022\u003EThe Children\u2019s Society\u003C/a\u003E, one in six young people have self-harmed in the last year. Not all self-harm causes scars (and not all scars are from self-harm), but some people choose clothes to cover scars.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGray Crosbie is a contributor for the BBC\u2019s The Social, a digital platform that develops young talent. They shared Gray\u2019s poem \u2018\u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07j52bn\u0022\u003ECovering Scars With Summer Jumpers\u003C/a\u003E\u2019 last year. \u2018When I was younger, I used to cover my scars all the time,\u2019 Gray explains.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018It was a bit of a nightmare, especially when it was warm.\u2019 It also stopped them joining in, for example, with swimming. Self-harm \u2018wasn\u2019t something I could talk about\u2019 says Gray. \u2018It was something I had to hide\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESelf-harm isn\u2019t shameful but whether scars are days or years old, \u2018It\u2019s hard, because so much of your history is there,\u2019 Gray explains. \u2018It can be quite scary knowing that people can see I have a history of self-harm; you feel quite vulnerable.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are things everyone can do to make it easier for people with self-harm scars. Avoid asking insensitive questions and, \u2018If you notice someone else asking an inappropriate question, say so, and check the person with scars is OK,\u2019 suggests Gray. People can also \u2018actively practise not staring\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith time and welcoming environments, some people feel comfortable showing their scars. \u2018It was a very long process\u2019, says Gray. \u2018I still feel like I\u2019m going through it sometimes\u2019. At first, their decision \u2018was almost a protest\u2019 Gray explains. \u2018People might find it uncomfortable, but this is my body, this is what I have to put up with, this is just how it is.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, it\u2019s about choice. \u2018If people feel uncomfortable having their scars out, there should be options to keep them covered,\u2019 says Gray. Equally, \u2018If you feel happy with your skin and your scars, you should be able to wear your skin and feel OK. It\u2019s your body, and it\u2019s whatever you feel most comfortable with.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether they\u2019re keeping them covered for work or wearing short sleeves in the summer, choice means that Gray can go about \u2018not even considering\u2019 their scars, and \u2018that\u2019s a much nicer place to be\u2019.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPlus-size\u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESize differences between shops can be frustrating, but many of us take for granted that we\u2019ll be able to find something that fits \u2013 a luxury that people with bigger bodies don\u2019t have.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHollie Burgess (better known as \u003Ca href=\u0022https://hollieplus.com/\u0022\u003EHolliePlus\u003C/a\u003E) is a plus-size fashion blogger. \u2018It\u2019s improved over the past five years,\u2019 she says. \u2018Before, it was really hard to find fashionable clothing. There were only basic things \u2013 stuff that standard-sized people would just wear around the house.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot being able to find clothes that fit \u2018makes you feel like there\u2019s something wrong with you,\u2019 she says. As a teenager, it affected her socialising. \u2018What\u2019s the point in going clothes shopping, if I can\u2019t do what my friends are doing?\u2019 And when it came to parties, if she couldn\u2019t find nice clothing, she didn\u2019t want to go.\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u2018As an adult, it seems a bit trivial,\u2019 says Hollie. She\u2019s clear that it\u2019s not about clothes (or appearances) determining self-worth. It\u2019s about being included. Things are getting better, but \u2018it comes with limitations\u2019 says Hollie. \u2018If I had a wardrobe malfunction today, if my jeans ripped or I spilled coffee, I\u2019m 99% sure I couldn\u2019t go and find an outfit on the high street.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EComfort zone \u003C/strong\u003E\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, small changes in the industry, such as plus-sized clothes becoming more widely available, are having an impact. \u2018It sounds dramatic,\u2019 Hollie says, \u2018but it\u2019s changed my life. When you\u2019re big you\u2019re always being told you\u2019re taking up too much space, all these negative things. When you feel OK about how you look, you find confidence. You can be who you are.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are still barriers, including cost and choice. The industry has a long way to go to include everybody, but positive changes are showing people they\u2019re valued. \u2018It\u2019s really nice,\u2019 Gray says. \u2018I remember when I didn\u2019t think this day would ever come.\u2019\u003C/p\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECharities such as \u003Ca href=\u0022https://www.mind.org.uk/\u0022\u003EMind\u003C/a\u003E have lots of information and support. Always follow \u003Ca href=\u0022/volunteers/staying-safe-and-safeguarding/safe-scouting-cards/safeguarding-code-of-conduct-for-adults-yellow-card/\u0022 title=\u0022Young People First - Yellow Card\u0022\u003Ethe Yellow Card\u003C/a\u003E and pass on concerns about a young person.\u003C/p\u003E","gtmId":"","gtmClass":""}]}],"config":null}]},"searchDescription":null,"pageType":null,"location":null,"versionDate":"04 May 2020","reviewDate":null,"furtherReading":[],"relatedLinks":[],"id":50837,"nodeName":"More than an outfit","title":"More than an outfit","type":"storyCaseStudy","image":{"url":"/media/6460/trio.jpg?cc=0.010582010582010545,0.010582010582010625,0.010582010582010545,0.010582010582010625\u0026width=800\u0026height=450\u0026v=1daa2cad4880b30","caption":"Trio","type":"jpg","size":1586660,"width":1920,"height":1080,"altText":"An illustration of four people in different poses showing off their outfits. One person is holding a sewing needle and thread"},"assets":null,"headerOptions":{"headerTitle":"More than an outfit","headerSubTitle":null,"headerCta":null,"headerCtaText":null,"headerCtaLink":null,"headerBackgroundColour":null,"showSEOImage":false,"headerBackgroundImage":null,"quickLinks":null},"subHeader":"","browserTitle":null,"silktide":"eyJjbXMiOiJVbWJyYWNvIiwiZWRpdG9yVXJsIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9wcm9kLWNtcy5zY291dHMub3JnLnVrLy91bWJyYWNvIy9jb250ZW50L2NvbnRlbnQvZWRpdC81MDgzNyJ9","canonicalUrl":"https://www.scouts.org.uk/news/2020/may/more-than-an-outfit/"}